Is it possible to describe a trip such as we had? It's both memory and emotion, a never ending feast for the senses. For me, it was a two-month time-capsule of joy and contentment, an opportunity to relax and rejuvenate, to experience meaningfully another lifestyle.
I visited a landscape of farmsteads, vineyards, sunflower meadows and garrigues, strewn with medieval villages and strongholds. A land of myth and history, gargoyled churches and half-timbered houses. It's where I found dramatic river gorges, waterfalls, endless azure skies and sundrenched days. Gastronomic pleasures such as foie gras, tapenade, magret de canard and olive oil became everyday fare. Traditional markets brimmed with fat bunches of pink garlic and white asparagus, succulent melons, rounds of creamy Pélardon goat cheese, sage and honey vinegar. I will keep close to my heart the narrow and winding streets, the stone houses with pastel shutters, a pigeonnier under every roof, the reassuring chime of the church bells, the tranquility, the lazy day cafés.
I loved this country, its pace, its people. There is a chord deep inside me that resonated as I spoke my mother tongue. Ma France, je te reviendrai!
Monday, October 12, 2009
CHARTRES: 01.VII.09
According to art historian Emile Male, "Chartres is the mind of the Middle Ages manifest." Begun in 1020, the Romanesque cathedral was destroyed by fire in 1194. Only the north and south towers, south steeple, west portal, and crypt remained; the sacred "Veil of the Virgin" relic was the sole treasure to survive.
Peasant and lord alike helped to rebuild the church in just 25 years. Has anyone read "Pillars of the Earth"? It takes on a whole new meaning when touring this cathedral.
Few alterations were made after 1250 and, fortunately, Chartres was unscathed by the Wars of Religion and the French Revolution.
The result is a Gothic cathedral with a true "Bible in stone" reputation.
These elongated statues on the Royal Portal represent Old Testament figures.
Chartres has some of the most beautiful examples of stained glass in France. Donated by royalty, aristocracy, priests, and the merchant brotherhoods between 1210 and 1240, the glorious collection of stained glass is world-renowned. Around 176 windows illustrate biblical stories and daily life in the 13th century. During both World Wars the windows were dismantled piece by piece and removed for safety.
In the Grenier de Loens, next to the cathedral, is the Centre International du Vitraux (stained glass).
Each window is divided into panels, usually read from left to right, bottom to top (earth to heaven). The number of figures or abstract shapes used is thought to be symbolic: three stands for divinity, while the number four symbolizes the material world or the four elements.
Peasant and lord alike helped to rebuild the church in just 25 years. Has anyone read "Pillars of the Earth"? It takes on a whole new meaning when touring this cathedral.
Few alterations were made after 1250 and, fortunately, Chartres was unscathed by the Wars of Religion and the French Revolution.
The result is a Gothic cathedral with a true "Bible in stone" reputation.
These elongated statues on the Royal Portal represent Old Testament figures.
Chartres has some of the most beautiful examples of stained glass in France. Donated by royalty, aristocracy, priests, and the merchant brotherhoods between 1210 and 1240, the glorious collection of stained glass is world-renowned. Around 176 windows illustrate biblical stories and daily life in the 13th century. During both World Wars the windows were dismantled piece by piece and removed for safety.
In the Grenier de Loens, next to the cathedral, is the Centre International du Vitraux (stained glass).
Each window is divided into panels, usually read from left to right, bottom to top (earth to heaven). The number of figures or abstract shapes used is thought to be symbolic: three stands for divinity, while the number four symbolizes the material world or the four elements.
NIORT: 30.VI.09
Once a medieval port by the green waters of the Sèvre, Niort is now a prosperous industrial town specializing in machine tools, electronics, chemicals, and insurance.
Its closeness to the marshes is evident in local specialties - eels, snails, and angelica. This herb has been cultivated in the wetlands for centuries and is used for anything from liqueur to ice-cream.
We had interest in visiting Niort since this is where Jean Gobeil and his family lived before leaving for Nouvelle-France via La Rochelle. We stopped for a delicious lunch before digging into our ancestral past.
The Plantagenet keep (donjon) is referenced in our Gobeil book. This huge 12th century donjon overlooking the Vieux Pont was built by Henry II and Richard the Lion-Heart and played an important role during the Hundred Years' War, then later used as a prison. Today it now houses a museum of local arts and crafts and archeology.
By digging on the Internet, we discovered that Jean Gobeil was married at the St. André church in Niort. The church would have been less than 50 years old at the time.
St. André.
Its closeness to the marshes is evident in local specialties - eels, snails, and angelica. This herb has been cultivated in the wetlands for centuries and is used for anything from liqueur to ice-cream.
We had interest in visiting Niort since this is where Jean Gobeil and his family lived before leaving for Nouvelle-France via La Rochelle. We stopped for a delicious lunch before digging into our ancestral past.
The Plantagenet keep (donjon) is referenced in our Gobeil book. This huge 12th century donjon overlooking the Vieux Pont was built by Henry II and Richard the Lion-Heart and played an important role during the Hundred Years' War, then later used as a prison. Today it now houses a museum of local arts and crafts and archeology.
By digging on the Internet, we discovered that Jean Gobeil was married at the St. André church in Niort. The church would have been less than 50 years old at the time.
St. André.
The huge arched doors welcomed us in.
The stained glass was added many years after the church was built.
We took time to light candles and pray for the souls of our ancestors, the 11 generations going back to Jean Gobeil.
The walls are ancient and deteriorating.
Richard & Marguerite.
Perhaps we have a penchant for the dramatic, at least a little, but Richard and I posed as our ancestor Jean Gobeil and his new bride might have done on their wedding day, holding on to each other and facing the future. I doubt that they realized at the time that their future would include immigration to Canada.
LA ROCHELLE: 28 & 29.VI.09
La Rochelle, a commercial centre and busy port since the 11th century, has suffered much from a distressing tendency to back the wrong side - the English and the Calvinists, for example. This led to the ruthless siege of the city by Cardinal Richelieu in 1628, during which 23,000 people starved to death. The walls were destroyed and the city's privileges withdrawn.
On either side of the entrance to the harbour are "Tour de la Chaîne" and "Tour St-Nicolas". A huge chain used to be strung between them to ward off attack from the sea, and Karl is standing next to a portion of that chain.
This anchor should suit a fairly big ship, don't you think?
Diane and I fell for the likes of that notorious Captain Hook!
Do you think that Karl blends right in? 
There is an incredible exhibit of "La Nouvelle France" in "Tour de la Chaîne". We were particularly interested in this since we made our way to this city knowing that my and Richard's ancestors left for Canada from this port.
Notice the Québec flag flying here.
The first poster we saw upon entering the exhibit was one with the name Jean Gobeil in prominent letters! Jean Gobeil was that 1st settler in our geneology.
So of course Richard and I posed below the poster.
Can you make out the Gobeil name on the list of names of all the people who left France to come to Canada?
There's the Bilodeau name, too, my maternal grand-father's name.
This tower was multi-storied and the stairs were old, steep and uneven. Still, this was one exhibit that was worth every moment of our time!
On either side of the entrance to the harbour are "Tour de la Chaîne" and "Tour St-Nicolas". A huge chain used to be strung between them to ward off attack from the sea, and Karl is standing next to a portion of that chain.
This anchor should suit a fairly big ship, don't you think?
The glory of La Rochelle is the old harbour surrounded by stately buildings.
Diane and I fell for the likes of that notorious Captain Hook!
We found the richly decorated 16th century courtyard façade of the Hôtel de Ville (City Hall) worth visiting.
Do you think that Karl blends right in?
No, this is not Karl, but the legs are good.
There is an incredible exhibit of "La Nouvelle France" in "Tour de la Chaîne". We were particularly interested in this since we made our way to this city knowing that my and Richard's ancestors left for Canada from this port.
Notice the Québec flag flying here.
The first poster we saw upon entering the exhibit was one with the name Jean Gobeil in prominent letters! Jean Gobeil was that 1st settler in our geneology.
So of course Richard and I posed below the poster.
Can you make out the Gobeil name on the list of names of all the people who left France to come to Canada?
There's the Bilodeau name, too, my maternal grand-father's name.
This tower was multi-storied and the stairs were old, steep and uneven. Still, this was one exhibit that was worth every moment of our time!
MAISON FORTE DE REIGNAC: 27.VI.09
This monument is the strangest castle in Perigord, the most secret, the most extraordinary and also the most mysterious. Built beneath the escarpment, it rises from the rock of which it is built and conceals enormous subterranean vaults that have witnessed fascinating periods of our civilisation for more than 20,000 years. This house opened after 50 years of scientific and archaeological research. I rank this place as one of my favourite trip highlights.
A fireplace so big it could accommodate large game on the rotisserie. For my French-speaking readers, the arm that holds the pot is called a crémaillère. A house warming is called "pendre la crémaillère" in French, i.e., get some food cooking to welcome your guests.
Since this house spans centuries, you can see the various forms of chimneys, from a simple hole in the roof to a constructed fireplace.
Prehistoric people settled here 200 centuries ago, a stone's throw from a ford across the Vézère.
Reignac is the only monument in France of this "Château falaise" type totally intact and preserved in exceptional condition, with period furnishings throughout.
The kitchen and food preparation area.
Behind me is a small fireplace and above it is an indented piece of rock where food was kept warm.
A fireplace so big it could accommodate large game on the rotisserie. For my French-speaking readers, the arm that holds the pot is called a crémaillère. A house warming is called "pendre la crémaillère" in French, i.e., get some food cooking to welcome your guests.
This is a fancy bread box, protected from rodents and insects high above the ground.
This would have been the sleeping quarters for house staff.
Since this house spans centuries, you can see the various forms of chimneys, from a simple hole in the roof to a constructed fireplace.
This is the Comtesse's bed chamber. As you can see, the decor is definitely becoming more recent.
Geese at large. No forced feeding here!
Ok, it just wouldn't be a complete report without a photo of the dessert. Karl ordered the largest sundae on the menu and he moaned and smacked his lips for a looong time!
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