UZÈS:21-V-09

This charming town has an arcaded marketplace and several fine medieval towers, one with a sundial clock. The author Racine who stayed here in 1662 was so enchanted by its local beauties that he gave up his religious aspirations. He wrote to his Parisian cousin that "We have more beautiful nights here than your days..." How we enjoyed walking around, looking at all the artists, poking in all the shops. Particularly fascinated with the truffle store, specializing in all the truffles grown in the area. VERY expensive! Admired all the different olive oils and pastes available.

Prayed in the Cathedral. Stopped in front of St. Firmin, patron saint of the "weak", then admired the beauty and variety of stained glass. Of course we stopped for our afternoon dessert which was "fondant au chocolat" today, better known as a volcano cake.

JUNAS: 16-V-09

Junas is famous for its old stone quarries. Ever since the middle ages, the quarrymen have patiently extracted the material needed to build houses. The quarry with its dramatic cuts and different levels provides a sumptuous “amphitheatre” setting for cultural events during the summer season. Every July, stone cutters meet to create works of art which now stand all over the town, beautiful creations that speak to the talent of these men.

The belfry from every church in this region is "open" rather than closed to allow the strong Mistral winds to blow through rather than against the structure.

CORCONNE: 15-V-09

It's hot in this corner of the world, as evidenced by these tropical plants!

Corconne was one of our favourite spots in the Vidourle Valley. Karl climbed a steep hill to an old chapel ruin, built on an even older castle ruin, and the view of the surrounding vineyards and farms was breathtaking! There was a natural arch of stones there called “le pont du Hasard”, carved by the whims of nature. The town of Corconne has narrow, windy streets, steep inclines, and a very slow pace.

We stopped at the 17th century olive press and met Matthieu, the new owner who had just opened up a restaurant 2 weeks prior. He took the time to explain to us how the mill worked, how those ancient presses functioned, and where the oil was stored. Fascinating!

We ate one of the most delicious dinners here. Of course, they started with green and black olive tapinades, given that this was an old olive press. Then came these tiny, minuscule clams called “les tellines” which were so tasty. I had the lox with lemon and toast for my appetizer while Karl had the scallops & prawns with a light salad. For the main course, I had the rabbit marinated in oil and rosemary with ratatouille and rice. Karl had the osso bucco with rice and veggies. Then came a plate of cheese followed by a tower of tiramisu for me and a Marquis de chocolat for Karl with orange marmalade. The bill came with little macaroons. Best say we “rolled” out of the restaurant, just like the barrels of oil used to in the old days!

PONT DU GARD: 13-V-09

This 2000 year-old bridge comprises 3 tiers of continuous arches, the top being an aquaduct, the middle a bridge fit for soldiers and walkers, and the lower and wider bridge made for chariots, horses and legionnaires (foot soldiers). The Romans considered it the best testimony to the greatness of their Empire, and at 160 ft it was the highest bridge they ever built.

It is made from blocks of stone, hauled into place by slaves using an ingenious system of pulleys. It was in continuous use for 500 years and carried water to Nîmes along a 31-mile route from the springs at Uzès.

ANDUZE: 10-V-09

Celebrating 100 years of its steam train, this little town went all out with its festivities. There were parade floats, bands, musicians dressed in locomotive costumes, locals dressed in the era of that day, and all the restaurants were doing booming business. Bumped into the owner of “La Bergerie” restaurant where we had eaten a few nights before and Karl couldn’t believe that we had only been in the area for 8 days and I was already recognizing the locals.

Drove home via LaSalle which meant a very windy road through the garrigues (local trees which constitute the forest here). We climbed very high through the Cevennes mountains and saw great views of the valley.

ST-GUILHEM LE DÉSERT: 9-V-09

St-Guilhem le Désert is considered a UNESCO heritage site and one of the most beautiful villages in France. It’s the oldest medieval city we’ve seen so far and the best preserved. The Abbaye de Gellone is here, former home of the Benedictine monks. While touring the Abbaye, there was a woman practicing a love song for that afternoon's wedding, and her voice was that of an angel! She sang “Je t'aimerai aujourd'hui, toujours, bien au-delà de la Vie…”  (Johnny Hallyday - Always*).  As we stepped outside into the courtyard, the sun was shining through the branches of this enormous old oak tree and along came the bride, wrapped in meters of feather-light organza, stepping daintily along the cobblestone. I knew at that moment that that’s what fairy tales are made of!

Not far away is the Pont du Diable. Legend has it that the king couldn't get his bridge built because it kept getting destroyed every night - no doubt the work of the devil! So he made a pact that should he be able to complete his bridge, the soul of the first living being to cross the bridge after completion would belong to the devil. The bridge was completed in 3 days. He then sent a dog across the bridge, dragging a pot tied to his tail.

Also in this area is the Grotte de Clamouse, a cave rich with extraordinary limestone formations of stalactites and stalagmites resembling dripping candles. The reflections from underground rivers and pools flicker on the cavern roofs.

On our way home we stopped at St-Jean-de-Buèges to buy wine and a few jars of jam. One was called “Gratte-Cul”, made from the wild rose bush (églantine). It takes an inordinate length of time to dig out the very tiny berry hidden within a perimeter of little “hairs”, thus bearing the tag of “un travail de romain”.

 *  Paroles "Always", de Johnny Hallyday

Always

C'est ta main qui se perd dans ma main

Always

Ton rêve qui se réveille dans le mien

Toujours

Et jusqu'à mon dernier jour

Always

C'est mon coeur qui demande à vivre

Always

L'éternité de nos souvenirs

Dieu sait

Combien de temps je pourrai

Te dire

L'Amour qui manque à la Vie

Te dire encore

Je t'aimerai aujourd'hui

Toujours

Bien au-delà de la Vie

Te dire Always

Pour que jamais tu n'oublies

Always

Je serai le gardien de ton Ange

Always

Tu garderas mon âme en échange

Et moi

J'écouterai tes silences

Me dire

L'Amour qui manque à la Vie

Me dire encore

Je t'aimerai aujourd'hui

Toujours

Bien au-delà de la Vie

Me dire Always 

Pour que jamais je n'oublie

Toujours, et parceque rien ne finit

Se dire Always, comme on se dit pour la Vie

Always, toujours et bien au-delà de la Vie

Always

LA FÊTE DU CAMPOIRAL: 9-V-09

This festival is a 3-day affair that pits men against bulls. We arrived at “La Place de la Foire” in Quissac just as the band was starting to play and the folks were lining up behind the metal fences. At the sound of the gun, a row of “gardians” or cowboys trot through the streets in tight formation with one to four black bulls with wide horns coming up the rear. The young men try to grab the bulls’ tails, jump on their backs or grab onto their horns. Sometimes a bull gets loose and runs amok through the streets, jumping fences and hedges, and causing much mayhem. Sometimes the horses lose their footing and the rider gets pitched to the ground (see 2nd photo from bottom). It looks dangerous but nobody seems to get hurt. What fun with the crowds cheering, clapping, laughing – a real festive atmosphere.